Stefan Vetter
Franconia
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Stefan Vetter
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Gambach
Franconia, Germany -
Biodynamic
My first encounter of Stefan Vetter’s wines was in 2019 whilst in Vienna. The bottle was a 2015 Sylvaner and it left an indelible mark. Subsequent Europe trips always involved drinking more Vetter when I was lucky to find them.
Stefan Vetter is a quiet man and someone who doesn’t work on promoting himself or his wines. He has been one of those ‘if you know you know’ producers.
The estate began in 2012 when Stefan and his wife Katja purchased a small plot of 50-year-old Sylvaner. They now farm 4 hectares of vines in Gambach, Franconia.
Their terraced vineyards sit high above the Main River protected by the forest. A collection of small plots planted mostly to Sylvaner of 40 – 60 years of age (representing 70% of the vines) accompanied by Muller Thurgau, Riesling and Pinot Noir. All vineyard work is done by hand.
The terroir comprises sandstone on the lower terraces and limestone (Muschelkalk) higher up, a combination of the two in the middle.
Sylvaner is Franken’s defining grape, accounting for the highest proportion of the region’s plantings. Not known as an aromatic variety, it's more famous for its structure and crunchy acidity. Here in continental Franconia, it displays green fruited, herbaceous attributes. And when old vine Sylvaner is farmed well, it takes on the terroir.
Stefan picks early wanting a fresher style, berries with phenolic ripeness yet natural acidity. Pressing is gentle and slow, using both a pneumatic press and old basket press for the single site and GK. Elevage occurs in used barrels, the wines are bottled un-fined, unfiltered and with notional sulphur at bottling.
Stefan Vetter produces wines of tension and drive; a reflection of their terroir and their maker. Low alcohol, these are enticing expressions of the variety. They don’t scream I am here, they unfurl, inviting you to discover and explore.
The Wines
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Varietal Muller Thurgau
Colour WhiteWhole bunches directly pressed, rested in used barrels.
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Varietal Sylvaner
Colour WhiteGrapes from a mix of plots, whole bunches directly pressed, rested in used barrels for 10 months.
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Varietal Sylvaner
Colour WhiteSylvaner from the higher terraces where the soil is limestone (Muschelkalk). Whole bunches directly pressed in an old basket press, rested in used barrels for 2 years.
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Varietal Sylvaner
Colour WhiteGK is from the oldest vines from the terrace, majority limestone soils and a section of the vineyard that is pure sandstone. Whole bunches directly pressed in an old basket press, rested in used barrels for 2 years.
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Varietal Riesling
Colour WhiteRiesling from several small parcels - 60% on limestone soils and 40% red sandstone. Whole bunches directly pressed in an old basket press, rested in used barrels for 2 years.
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Varietal Pinot Noir
Colour RedYoung vine Pinot Noir grown on limestone soil. Whole bunches crushed, macerated for 7 days. The cap is kept moist and there is no pigeage, gently pressed in an old basket press and rested in old barrels for 2 years.

