Milan Nestarec
Moravia

In July 2017, I journeyed to Moravia in the Czech Republic to visit Milan Nestarec despite knowing that he had chosen another importer to work with in Australia. That didn't matter to me, I was fascinated by what he was doing and captivated by his wines which I had been drinking in Europe. 

Fast forward a few years and Milan contacted me to see if working with him was still of interest as the relationship with his previous importer wasn't working. We remained talking and at the end of 2022 I reintroduced these cult Czech wines back into the Australian market. 

Moravia is a historical region in central Europe that served as the centre of the kingdom of Bohemia in the 11th century. In the 20th century it became part of the modern state of Czechoslovakia and subsequently of the Czech Republic.

The Nestarec’s are in the village of Velke Bilovice, located in the southern part of Moravia, 15km north of the Austrian border. A region rich in agriculture, Moravia is noted for its viticulture, with 94% of the Czech Republic's vineyards here, it is the centre of the countries wine region.

In 2008 at the age of 20, Milan Nestarec took over the family business and winemaking duties from his father. It wasn’t until 2015 that Milan’s wines would become noticed and sought after on the world stage, and this family business would grow. Milan has paved the way for the next generation of winemakers and ensured that the wines from the Czech Republic are spoken about in all corners of the globe.

The Nestarec’s have a little over 25 hectares around Velke Bilovice, Moravsky Žižkov and the surrounding Palova hills. The soils are pure loess, sand, clay and some chernozem. Loess is a yellow dirt, the most typical soil in Bilovice. A superfine sand, its dark mustard colour comes from its high iron content. These soils often have limestone clusters in them, an aerated soil that gives wines with acid structure and direction. Chernozem is a black coloured soil containing a high percentage of humus, a fertile soil with high moisture storage capacity.

Extensive work is being undertaken in the vineyards, especially in plots acquired more recently. Despite the limited history of Czech wine, Milan is focused on replanting to traditional varieties of the region: including Gruner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Müller Thurgau, Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. Utilising massale selection from their original vineyards, the cuttings are sent to Germany for propagation, his father having a longstanding relationship with a nursery in the Pfalz where he previously worked.

Barrels are mostly used, a few are new, there's barriques, demi muds and Stockinger, additionally ceramic vessels and tanks. Plots are fermented and elevaged separately, sometimes even a single row is given special treatment. 

Milan recognises that the wines at the beginning of his journey are very different to those he makes now, as an early 20-year-old he wanted to push boundaries. Now, the fruit directs the direction of the wine, allowing the vineyard and wine to speak for themselves. The evolution of growing as a winemaker and a person. That of course doesn’t stop his curiosity, and there will sporadically be experimental and special cuvees released.

Since 2009 the vineyards have been worked in organic farming, with biodynamic practices incorporated. The focus is on a healthy eco system and understanding the needs of each individual site.

In the cellar indigenous yeast fermentation, no fining or filtrating occurs. Sulfur is used sparingly at bottling when required.