Domaine Les Usuels
Auvergne
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Amelie & Alex Desanges-Guilin
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Vensat
Auvergne, France -
Biodynamic (not certified)
Auvergne natives, Amelie and Alex Desanges-Guilin took a leap in 2018, leaving their sommelier careers to begin their winemaker journey. With classic wine training, extensive experience in three Michelin stared restaurants and an inquisitive mind, they hadn’t yet turned 30, but their commitment was unquestionable. Amelie had been working part time with Jean Maupertuis for several harvests.
Les Ussels is a very special project for me. I first met Alex & Amelie in February 2020 when I did a quick two-week trip to Europe for the wine salons. I knew then that it may take some years before they had enough wine to export, this was a project in its infancy. Amelie was pregnant at the time, and they had just planted a vineyard.
When next I visited in 2022 I was aghast to learn that the new vineyard which I visited had been vandalised by local famers. Despite the known benefits of chemical free agriculture, not all farmers agree. As the land was rented, there wasn’t a lot they could do. Rescuing what they could, these baby vines were transplanted to their home where they began an agroforestry project (vines co-planted with trees)
Biodiversity is their focus for the soil and environment.
The estate, a little over 1 hectare, consists of 3 vineyard plots around Claremont Ferrand, all of which are planted to Gamay d’Auvergne.
One site is volcanic rich basalt, another granite heavy and the last sandy soil with limestone pockets.
Black rot is a constant problem in the Auvergne, and Alex & Amelie will not spray copper which is the most effective treatment. In 2023 the result was just 200 bottles of estate wine produced. Sustainability in our work is only possible when we have sustainability personally, and this includes financial, as such they complement their project with negoc fruit.
The negoc wines have made up a large proportion of their production. They work closely with the same friends in Languedoc-Rousillon; Julien Fabregac (Liberte, Grand Mere, Nage Toujours) and Vincent Lafage (Sabwa & Nyiramachabelli).
Harvesting the fruit themselves it is taken back to the cellar in Vensat. Everything they do is considered. One euro from every negoc wine is donated to a charity. For Nyramchabulli it is the Diane Fosey Gorilla foundation.
Amelie & Alex’s production is just a few thousand bottles. Most of their wine stays in France, a small amount is exported to only two countries, Japan and Australia.
The Wines
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Varietal Muscat d’Alexandria, Gamay d’Auvergne
Colour OrangeThis cuvee sees whole bunches of Muscat d'Alexandria crushed and macerated with the marc of Gamay d'Auvergne for 2 days.
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Varietal Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Grenache
Colour OrangeGrenache Blanc and Grenache Gris macerated for 7 days in directly pressed Grenache, a gentle infusion.
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Varietal Carignan, Mourvedre
Colour Light RedA collaboration with Benoit Rosenberger where their fruit is split and each vinifies the fruit independently before combining the two vinifications prior to bottling. A component of the Carignan and Mourvedre were directly pressed, the other element macerated for approximately 6 days.
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Varietal Mourvedre, Syrah
Colour RedA maceration of Mourvedre in directly pressed Syrah for one week.
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Varietal Carignan Blanc, Carignan, Grenache
Colour RedCarignan Blanc and Carignan are macerated for around a week in direct pressed Grenache Noir juice.
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Varietal Gamay d’Auvergne
Colour RedAssemblage of all the Gamay d'Auvergne parcels of the estate, maceration with the first few clusters of Chenin from the garden for 3 weeks. This is a cuvee of just 200 bottles.